Storage Accomplished!

This is the most organized my patterns have been since I had the Sewing Basement Room O Doom!  (But I also had far fewer patterns at that point in history!) 

I am really quite excited, hopefully I’ll not have to go through the pain I’ve been experiencing lately when trying to find patterns! 

My most used patterns* I usually just have pinned to my board….that is a scary proposition!  I want to go through and copy my top patterns*, as some of them are getting pretty ratty, and then store them somewhere else, just so I always have a back up.

I bought four tubs, but only ended up using three – there is an amazing amount of storage space in these babies!

I have the three tubs separated into major categories:

• My drafted patterns
• Historic pattern company patterns
• “Big 3” patterns (which is actually more than the “Big 3”, but makes sense to call that tub “Big 3”

Here is the interior of the “Drafted Patterns & Templates” tub.  This tub makes me happy, as it is nearly as full as all the other tubs, and is all my own work!  I think this tub is deceptively full, as I don’t draw out skirts (they’re easy peasy to draft, and seems pointless to have an actual pattern for each person/outfit), whereas the other patterns do – that’s a lot of room!

This tub is subdivided into major categories:

• Templates (things like embroidery, applique…..anything drawn)
• Accessories (multi-size accessories like saccoccia, partlets, coifs)
• Noelle
• Holly
• Others  (this section I might subdivide as I add to the collection….I just need to remember to draft 2 paper patterns when I make patterns for people….one for them to take, and one for me to archive and store!)

Next up is the “Historic Patterns” tub.  This tub is full of patterns not from the “Big 3”, with the exception of the very few “Big 3” patterns that are actually worth a crap.  (Historically speaking, anyway)  That is not to say that every pattern in here from a ‘historic pattern company’ is worth a crap (there are some stinkers in here, to be sure!), but is better than the very obviously costumey stuff in the other pattern tub.

This tub is subdivided into major categories:

• Truly Victorian (and Truly Victorian Demi Patterns)
• JP Ryan
• Historic Costume Patterns (Margo Anderson)
• Reconstructing History
• Ageless Patterns
• “Good" Big 3 Patterns
• *OTHER*  (This includes various patterns from different companies – I’ll subdivide if I get multiple patterns from one company)

And last, but not least is the “Big 3” tub.  There is actually more companies than “The Big 3”, but is an easy name for the tub!

This tub is subdivided into major categories:

• Civil War Mens
• Civil War Womens
• “Wenchy” Costumes (You know……the Piratey/Ever After/Braveheart/Shakespeare in Love knockoffs)
• Retro & Modern

I think this is the very first time in a very long time that I’ve actually gone to the effort of putting away all those ‘floater’ pieces.  (You know, the little pieces that get separated from the envelope and then multiply in the bottom of whatever pattern storage method you’re using.  Yeah.  I had a lot of those.)

A little note about pattern storage.  I used to use manila envelopes, and paste the commercial envelope or write the description (if I drafted it) on the outside.  This makes for tidy storage, as the envelopes are fairly rigid, and stack nicely. 

However, stuffing patterns back in such a rigid envelope isn’t the most convenient thing in the world, and as I’m a visual person, writing descriptions on the outside until I’m blue in the face isn’t going to help much, since I’m usually looking for “that one pattern that I drew in pink marker and made notes with blue pen….you know, the one……”

So, I’ve transitioned into the gallon ziploc baggies.  This isn’t a perfect solution by any means, but now I can see the contents of the packet and easily (or relatively so) fold and pack patterns. 

In my recent shopping trip, I also bought a packet of cardstock, which I used as dividers, tub labels, and as a stiff insert for the ziplocs.  My ziploc’d patterns stack much nicer now that there is something rigid giving the limp little baggie some body. 

So now, after all of that…….How do you all store your patterns?  Do you have and tips or tricks you’d like to share?

 

*Curved sleeve, side back lacing bodice, bodies, partlet, doublet bodice

(Yet another) Shopping Trip

I really, really needed to find something to lace my red velvet gown, and went to 3 different stores only to end up with black twill tape.  *curses*  At least it’s better than the horrible synthetic cord I was using as a stop-gap measure!

But, on my trip I found some awesome cut worked and couched ribbon….for what purpose I’m not exactly sure, but it’s certainly on my mental checklist of “could be awesome for something”; (I think it was $5.99/yd, but would be totally affordable with a 50% coupon.  I’ll be on the lookout for Hobby Lobby coupons for the next little while!)  There was also a ‘latte’ color that was pretty as well.

I also saw this awesome red and gold fabric on sale for $7/yd.  I know you won’t believe me but I did not buy it.  But it was pretty, so I thought I’d share:  (Also found at Hobby Lobby)

What I did buy was a ‘pet hair remover sponge’, which I have only tried on a little piece of fabric, but seems to be working well.  I am always on a hunt for new lint/pet hair remover products!  (It was originally $6.99, and it was on clearance for $2.15, so not that big of a purchase if it doesn’t work out the way I would like!  Hobby Lobby impulse buy.)

Also, on a whim, I bought a spool of ‘memory thread’, which is basically just thread wrapped wire.  I’ve been wanting to do a couching project for a while now, and I’m thinking this stuff would couch nicely!  (There is a whole range of colors and metallics; though the metallics are a bit….well, cheesy looking.  The ‘dark ecru’ is pictured below, and is quite pretty.  Oh yeah, I got this at JoAnns)

Because I’ve had such problems with patterns lately, I went to the local Evil Overlord (Wal-Mart) and got 4 Rubbermaid-esque tubs to store my patterns in.  Hopefully, this will allow me to be a bit more organized!  I also looked for the 8.5x11” baggies, but couldn’t find any….that may have to be an internetz purchase.  For now, my gallon-size ziploc bags will work.

I should finish up the other shoulder of my green dress, but I’m going to go wade through my patterns for a minute and see if I can get things organized a bit!  Will post pattern updates soon!

Projects from today

A few days ago, my mom asked me if I would make a “queens cloak”.  I wasn’t quite sure what she was after, but I think we ended up with a fairly regal looking miniature (costume) cloak for her 3rd grade class.

This morning, my mother and I spent Mothers Day morning sewing and chatting….it was very fun to have her involved in a project and generally hanging out.

I’ll post some pictures of a child wearing it as soon as I get some!

It’s made of red velvet, and I talked my mom into doing faux ermine with some hand spun black yarn.  I think it ended up quite cute!  (And ends up looking far less ‘Santa Claus’….)

Down the road, we may end up adding some gold trim or another band of ermine around the hem, but since she needed it for Monday morning, this is as far as we got, and I think it turned out quite well!

		Queen Cloak VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

Also, my good friend Jaquelinne came over for some patterning.  She left with a side-back lacing bodice (my new favorite thing in the entire world, by the way!).  I don’t have any pictures of the fitting process, but it went smoothly.

On a slightly related note, I’m not terribly good about documenting all the fitting and sewing I end up with and/or for others, but that is something that I’m going to try to get better at, since it’s about 75% of what I spend my time doing!

Back to panniers

I set aside the infuriating stays for a moment to focus on getting the second set of panniers done.  The linen is not as stiff in this pair, and I’m using a slightly different design – it will be interesting to see what the differences are.

When doing things like hoops, it’s invaluable to have multiple sheets of transfer paper, and a good tracing wheel.  (My favorite is the needle-point wheel)

And while I was looking for a good link for the tracing wheel above, look what I found!  This handy tool, called quirkily enough, a “Roll-A-Pattern”.  I’m thinking this handy thing might have to come and live in my stash some day!

Quick Easter Project & Pattern Prep w/Freezer Paper

I cooked up a plan late last night to make an Easter dress for my step daughter.  It’s only Thursday afternoon – I have plenty of time, right?  (I’m hoping to get some other accessories done as well, but we’ll see….)

So, there’s the pattern I’m going to use:  McCall's #5742.  There is a collar on this dress, and it surprises me that each of the dresses shown don’t use a contrasting color!  I’m going to be doing the petticoat/lining, collar, and waist tie in the bright peacock, and the rest of the dress in the purple patterned fabric.

There are a ton of tutorials out there for making your own patterns for children’s dresses, but honestly, for 99c, I’ll purchase the pattern and save myself the hassle of starting from scratch!  (And then I’ll have time to blog about it, too!

I’m going to switch gears here for a minute and talk about pattern prep and storage.  The first thing you’re going to do is separate out all the pieces of the pattern.  It doesn’t have to be pretty, just hack them apart, but be careful not to slice into the pattern pieces themselves.

Then, iron all your pieces flat.  This is a very important step – whether you go on to the freezer paper or not, you won’t get an accurate pattern cut from wrinkly pieces!

Now this is my favorite part…..jigsaw the pieces on freezer paper, (my favorite sewing friend) and with an iron set on “Medium”, iron the pieces onto the shiny (plasticized) side of the freezer paper.  Go a bit slowly, and be sure not to iron any creases into the pattern – it’ll be permanent!  Also take care that the pieces don’t overlap!

Then cut out all your pieces.  You can cut on the size that you’re going to use, cut around the pattern pieces, or cut the largest size.  (I usually cut out the largest size, and trace smaller sizes, so I always have a pristine pattern)

I like to re-fold my pattern pieces so the piece number is visible whenever possible.  (Makes it a lot easier to find that one piece that you need to grab out of the stack!)

And finally, storage!  I’m pretty terrible about keeping my patterns together, and I’ve found that if I put everything in a large gallon sized Ziploc bag, rather than try to stuff it all back in the original envelope, I’m more apt to keep the pattern all together.

Lace Cap

 

This cap was one of my very favorite pieces in my antique textiles collection, and one day, I’d like to make a similar one myself!  The eBay seller very unhelpfully labeled it as “Victorian Edwardian Lace Cap”, so I am not sure of the date!

The cap is made from a fine netting mesh – it feels to me like cotton.  It is embroidered with fine thread – probably also cotton.

The back of the ‘cap’ portion is gathered by a thin cotton tape that is fed through a very thin cotton cord attached at intervals along the bottom, creating loops.

The construction of the cap uses the very teeniest flat felled seams I have ever seen in my life!  I can imagine how fiddly it would have been to make everything lie flat around the gentle curve of the gathered lappet.

The outer edge of the lappet and brim are bound by the same cotton tape used to gather the cap.  The stitches are relatively long – about 1/8”.

The embroidery was done in chain stitch with a tambour hook.  Here’s mine – I purchased it at Hedgehog Handiworks…..they are AMAZING.

Each design cleverly uses a continuous line to form the pattern, making each design have only one beginning and end….very smart!  These little flowers were started at the end of the stem, and end in the center of the flower – the entire design is worked counter-clockwise.

The flower designs that cover the back of the cap are 1.5” apart horizontally, and 1” apart vertically, creating a ‘diamond’ offset pattern.  (Each flower is 1/2” x 1/2”)

As with the tiny flowers speckling the back of the cap, the brim designs are worked so each individual element is made up of only one line of embroidery.

The wavy and squiggle lines are the edge of the brim, and the dots fill in the space between the large flower design.  (The large flowers are 1 3/4” x 1 1/2”)

It has taken me a couple of days to get this post together enough to be able to post, and I was feeling guilty about the radio silence, so I posted what I had this morning – Some things I left out are 1) a scaled pattern of the cap; and 2) a video tutorial on tambour embroidery.  If either of these things are interesting to you, let me know and I will get them posted!