Dickens Gown 2012

I would say my Dickens gown, but since Melia and I have such similar measurements, we're going to be trading off gowns throughout the fair.  I'm making one new gown, and refurbishing my green gown so we both have something to wear.

I haven't quite decided which seams will be piped (at least sleeves and back curves and neckline - maybe waist and wrists as well?), so I just made a whole load of piping, so I would be ready for whatever I decided to do down the road......

I used 2" wide strips of bias, and using a zipper foot, sewed against a core of cotton cord (some cheap white off-brand cone of cotton crochet yarn I bought about eleventy-billion years ago, like Sugar & Cream, but cheaper!)

I ought to have taken pictures while I was doing it, but here is some awesome paint illustrations... :) The easiest way, I've found, to cut a moderate amount of bias is to open up the fabric:

and fold so the cut edge is matched up to the selvedge:

And at this point, you can cut the bias starting on the fold.  If the fabric is thin enough, you can fold one more time, and cut through 4 layers.  (Cutting bias is SO MUCH easier with a rotary cutter.  I'd highly suggest using one!)  The first cut on the fold should be 1/2 the width of the total width of the bias strip.  Every cut thereafter should be cut the full width.

Melia's Red Queen Gown

This is a really quick post, as the construction is pretty much all old news at this point!  :)

I haven't been posting update pictures of Melia's gown - all we have left is the buttons, and potentially some neckline options!

Here's the basic gown:

And the gown, with the over skirt (which actually, still needs permanent bustling, come to think of it!)

 I need to speak to Melia about it, but here are a couple of neckline trimming options:  (I'm leaning towards the lace)

Event PSA - Alice in Wonderland Tea!

There is a lovely be-costumed Tea scheduled for the 10th of next month!

I've been thinking off an on again about hosting my own Tea, since the last one was such a success, but this is even better! 

My good friend Jannean is visiting for the weekend, and will be in attendance as well as my sister and her Hubs!  If you'd like to go, buy/reserve tickets ASAP - the host is getting nervous that there are not as many attendees as hoped.  (It will be a fabulous party, no matter how many people are or are not there!!)

Please note, costumes of any sort are encouraged!  The photography alone is worth it - if you've never been to Thanksgiving Point, you certainly should go!  (And what better time to go, than with fellow costuming enthusiasts?!)

From the event listing:

Tickets

Come out and enjoy the beautiful gardens of Thanksgiving Point through the doorway of Alice and Wonderland Steampunk style!

Partake in the delightful and delicious treats and sweets picked by The Hatter himself and dance around with the March Hare and the darling Door Mouse (should she wake up.)

The menu is:

- Assorted Petites Croissants
- Fresh Seasonal Sliced Fruit
- Garden Vegetable Crudites with Herbed Ranch Dip
- Petite Fours
- Assorted Tartlets (Chocolate Raspberry & Lemon Berry)
- Flavored Cheesecakes (Vanilla & Raspberry Swirl)
- Lemon Bars
- Dozen Cucumber & Cream Cheese Canapes
- Sparkling Cranberry Juice and Hot Tea


Take pictures with Alice or BE Alice, the White King or Queen. But whatever you do, however you are, just don't miss out on this scene!

- Costume contest for the best Steampunk'd Alice in Wonderland Character.

- Door prizes by the Door Mouse.

- Marvelous Music

Tickets are $20.00 per person, which includes food, drink, and photography in the gardens.

Just a few pics...

In all the last minute fitting and finishing, I managed to forget my camera!  Thankfully Anne took some photos on her phone!  I'm hoping we can get a proper photo shoot fairly soon.....

Melia and I planning a raid on the punch!
(Ignore my Silence-esque profile, courtesy of the picture frame I am standing in front of!)

Noelle's 'Steampunk' Hat

Thankfully, my sister did both of our hat blanks!  (I owe you, sis!)  I ended up making my hat at the very, very last second, and I *le gasp* constructed the entire thing with hot glue.  It's not as composed as I would have liked, but honestly, not too bad for an hours' worth of work, I think.  

I have to admit, I do have a bit of a hard time conforming to the popular 'steampunk look'.  In this outfit, my homage to the genre was my hat....

Melia's Victorian 'Steampunk' Gown - Update

As of last night, Melia's gown only needs a waistband, sleeves, buttons, and the last bits of trim, and it is done!  We busted out a bodice in short order - for which I'm grateful...that gives me hope that if mine goes as quickly, I have a bit of hope that I can get my bodice done in time!

Since we had her all trussed up in a corset for the bodice fitting, I wanted to throw on the skirts and get a sense of what it's going to look like on a 'real' body....

The black overskirt is only pinned in place, and is a bit saggy in the back due to a collapsed bustle piece (will be fixed before the day!), and everything needs to be hit with an iron, but all in all, I'm really happy about how everything turned out!

I'm really kind of enamored of the scallops on the over skirt - they were kind of a pain, but completely worth it in the end.

Steampunk Masked Ball - some small progress made

I seem to be continuously misplacing my mojo - and I think my sewing machines are in on it.  (Hang in there little buddies...I'll take you in for a service as soon as this project is over!!)

It took all evening yesterday to finish up the last little bits of the skirts - I honestly thought I only had an hour - maybe two, tops to get the skirts completely done, but oh how wrong I was! 

I spent the vast majority of the evening finishing up what Melia calls her 'saddlebags' - an extra bit of flouncy stuff on top of her black overskirt.  Here's Melias skirts without the 'saddlebags' - I'll post an update after Bertha has changed back into Melia's clothes!

My skirts are finally, finally truly to the point where all I need to do is a smidgeon of handsewing at the waistband, and I can call it good:  (I opted to put the ruffle on the waterfall skirt - a large portion of what took so dang long!  The first attempt was ripped off, and the second batch of ruffles didn't turn out like the first set, so needed a lot of fiddling to get them looking similar.  Many thanks to Melia for persevering through all that unpicking, on something that's not even her gown!!

I've more or less settled on coat sleeves (not too tight, but not loose like bishop or pagoda), probably either a wrist length with turned back cuff, or a 3/4 sleeve with a small bell or turnback.  Still kind of TBD.

I'm pretty set on doing a lower square neckline (which I suppose I could fill in if occasion demands, or heck, even make a new bodice) - but what I am completely stumped as to how I ought to do the bottom of the bodice.  Of the extant gowns I've been using for inspiration, it seems to be pretty split right down the middle as to whether the bodice is straight across the front, or various types of pointy*.  The exception to is this one, that has a nifty flared gore thing going on.  I know how to handle a pointy-type bodice (the skirts just go under the bodice, right?!), but what about the flat-across-the-front kind?  Same deal?  What about gap-page at the waist??

*Gah!  One of the gowns I'm using for reference is no longer online!!

Steampunk Masked Ball: Noelle's Gown

ERMERGERD!

It's less than a week away!

The good news is, both Melia and I both have underpinnings completely done (save for the odd button/hook), and both of our skirt ensembles are within a hairs breadth of being completed.  (leaving bodices & hats left to do...)

I originally was going to base my gown on an extant Victorian gown that was made to resemble an 18th c riding outfit.  It was perfect - I was going to do a 'quail' themed hunting outfit (I even had the perfect accessory for it courtesy of the ever-amazing Holly of Sable Greyhound), cute, right??  I even had the fabric in my stash......or so I thought.  After figuring out the concept, and getting really really excited about it, I found out I was short about 2 yards of brown velvet.  I went to EVERY fabric store within 30 miles, and not a single shred of brown velvet to be seen!

I hemmed and hawed and finally decided to use up the plummy purple silk that has been swimming around in my fabric stash for ages.  The problem is, I couldn't settle on exactly what I was going to do, so this gown is kind of a mish-mash of different gowns I have seen and liked, but oh boy, it's been a struggle!

Unlike Melia's gown, I didn't have a specific extant gown or period illustration we were (at least loosely) inspired by, which usually feels like I have more creative licence.  However, I just could not make up my mind about pretty much anything!

To make matters worse, my sewing machine has had some pretty epic tension/bobbin art issues - making everything more aggravating than it ought to be.

Yet again, my costume closet has come in quite handy, and a corset and bustle were available for my gown.  (Hurrah!)  Out of the bustle options I had available, I had an elliptical (so more proto-bustle, than actual bustle-bustle), and a much later lobster tail bustle.  I decided to go with the elliptical, because, yanno....bigger is better?

Between being extremely undecided, fighting with my sewing machine, and trying to figure out the brave new(ish) world of Victorian era clothing, the whole project is taking a bit longer than I would have anticipated, but all in all, I am pretty dang stoked.  

I used TV202 for the petticoat, and it went fairly smoothly, although  I struggled with the hem mightily - so I hope it works out in the end!  

Were I to do it again, I would make the gathers much less full....but I was not about to re-do them after the 6th time messing around with the hem!

I used the same skirt pattern,  TV202 for the skirt.  Which would have been ok, except the back panel was about 6" or so too wide for my fabric, and I made the unfortunate decision to not piece the back.  I really ought to have pieced the back....lesson learned - don't make big decisions late at night after a long day of sewing!

I'm also not entirely sure I am enamored of the hemline.  It seems to dip up in the front too dramatically, instead of being flat across the front, and then gracefully curve 'round to the back....but as I have not actually put it on yet, that remains to be seen.  If I really, really hate it, I can unpick the ruffle, and mask the skirt hemline by moving the ruffle down a smidge in the front.

I really wish I had make some tucks in the back like this extant gown (which may have made up for some of the loss of width!) - but I guess that is something to keep in mind if I ever do another one!

Which leads me to the trim for this gown....Melia found an extant gown that had some lovely ruched fabric trim that I just kind of fell in love with.  The bad news is, to do exactly the treatment that gown had would take far too long (it's all box pleated and frayed to a beautiful fringe finish) - but it got me thinking of using a fabric trim, rather than selling off one of my kidneys to go to the fabric store and rustle up some trim options.  The good news for me is, I had some black silk taffeta left over from a previous project that would go smashingly with what was turning into a half-mourning gown.  (Purple was a popular color for half mourning, so black trim is incredibly appropriate!)

Right now, I am trying to decide if I am going to put trim of the waterfall portion of the overskirt - if I leave it, it looks like I forgot to put trim on it, if I put it on, there would be stitching showing on the black side so....decisions, decisions!

I've spent the vast majority (ok, ALL) of my budget on hat fripperies and some insanely-priced buttons that were far too perfect to pass up.  (seriously, by far the most expensive buttons I've used, ever - and the most pricey item not from the stash!)

 And speaking of the hat.....I have (what I think) is a pretty cool trick up my sleeve to make the hat extra-special.  I am actually kind of ridiculously excited about moving on to the hat so I can see if my super seekrit idea will actually work or not!

I'm really struggling with how to work all the bodice/skirt pieces together, and I'm desperately trying to decide what kind of sleeves to do.  (Suggestions so welcome, btw.....)  I guess I have until this afternoon to come up with some sort of a plan......

Long time, no post!

Life, blah blah blah, sorry I have not posted, blah.

Part of me feeling better has been doing things again.  Namely, sewing!  If anyone is still reading, it is quite obvious that I have not been sewing pretty much at all for about a year.

Well, the dry spell has snapped!  I'm sewing!  And it feels........good.  I've really missed it.


My sister and I are going to a Steampunk-themed Masked Ball, and as is par for the course for me RE: costuming, even though we've talked about it for what seems like ages, we've kind of started a bit late!

While I'm not a stickler for Victorian-era accuracy (I honestly don't know enough to be a stickler!), especially in a Steampunk setting, I do like to do things at least a little bit right, which means proper underthings!

I am pretty excited about her gown - it is going to be pretty awesome, if I do say so myself! Melia has been such a trooper, bearing the brunt of the 'grunt' work - pre-washing, ironing, cutting out, etc.




Thankfully, I have a victorian-esque corset in the stash that fits Melia well enough that we do not have to start from scratch!  (Even though we should make one specifically for her one of these days....)


I also have quite a selection of bustles to choose from in my costume closet, so that is taken care of too!  I made this bustle a few years back for my red and gold stripey victorian, and if I remember correctly, I used  a modified Truly Victorian TV101.

(Bertha (my dress dummy) has no junk in her trunk, and the bustle is not as boufty as it is on a real human form!)    

The 'real' sewing started with the petticoat.  We used TV201, with a few modifications.  I found that I like the way the back hangs over the bustle if I turn the pattern piece for the back upside-down, and put the curve at the waist, and the straight edge along the bottom.  Totally personal preference, and probably doesn't make that much difference in the long run.

We also made the ruffle quite a bit deeper than the pattern; but there you go.  I can never follow directions.  (Pretty sure I'm allergic to people telling me what to do!)

Melia found some amazing 109" wide white muslin on an incredible sale, and we'll be using it for both of our underthings!









And here is where the REAL fun starts!  Quite a bit of the bits of both of our gowns is coming straight from the stash - all that is purchased in this picture is the muslin and skirt lining (ok, not in this picture) and the wide gold trim!

Stay tuned for more sneak peeks into both of our costumes!

Here; look at pictures!

I finally got a minute to get to my computer (started new job day after Other Noelle left to go home).  I don’t have much to say about the pictures that follow, other than I am so glad they’re done, and I think Other Noelle looks smashing in her new gowns!

		18th C VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

		Victorian VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

Full Day!

I got Holly's skirts cut, sewn and pleated; just need to get them attached to the bodice.
Val came over today, and I got her set up with the basics for a steampunk costume. (She may be coming back tomorrow to make a hat, but we will see....)
I also tested out a new hairstyle on Holly (courtesy of my cousin Jessicas blog)....I'm quite pleased with the result!

Oh my gaws this dress is Faaaaabulous!

Dress, ca 1867, Kent State
I now know what I am going to do with that million yards of black lace!  (But now to find striped silk satin.... Woe is me!)

Pictures!

Left to do on the bodice do-over:
-Sleeves
-Buttons/holes
-Ruffle hem

As you can see, I changed the neckline from the last attempt....I'm kind of liking it! :)


I am inordinately proud of The Strid. She created a gorgeous vest from a sketch in just a couple of days! I should get a close up of her welt pockets, they are truly amazing.



And bonus happy dog.....

Completely SMASHING weekend!

I picked up bodice_goddess after work on Friday afternoon, and headed home. We relaxed that night, poking through the goodies that she had brought on her trip. And oh my! What a pattern collection! She was good enough to let me hold on to the patterns until she comes back next month - I have a lot of work ahead of me!!

Holly was not able to make it down for the sewing, as she had done something nasty to her back. I am hoping that she'll make it up this next weekend. I think the plan is to make goggie costumes. Yay! (Although I'm hoping to not re-live the "dragon wing" experience. you just had to be there.)

On Saturday, we really got down to business. Bodice_goddess created a BEAUTIFUL corset that I am oh-so-jealous of! (The good part of this is that she purchased enough fabric for me to make a similar corset for me! YAY!)

The finished product:



Honestly, the pictures do not do the piece justice -- there is so much detail, and it is a stunning corset!

We took a quick break, and I was able to Skype with Melia. It was so nice to chat! I so wish she could have been here for the sewing festivities. She'll have a lot to catch up on when she gets back!

I worked on a bustle from Truly Victorian on Saturday, and I quite like the result! The layers of ruffles took an enormous amount of time, but well worth it in the end. As per usual, I read the instructions, then went merrily on my way completely ignoring them! Heh. I think you gain a sense of independence if you don't use commercial patterns on a regular basis. I think I may make a shorter bustle using the top back half of the pattern...the construction and support structure is really interesting, and I'd like to scale it up to make an even larger (!!!) bustle.



Both bodice_goddess and I finished up our separate projects on Saturday. She kindly put off working on her next project to help me with fitting and trimming my bodice. (All the ruffles? Made by her!) Here's a lowdown of what happened Sunday and Monday:

All the piece cut out (phew! That took f-o-r-e-v-e-r!) The stripey red is the main bodice fabric, and the gold is the accent bodice and trimming.


Checking the final fit....


Yards 'n yards of box pleats! Some have their gold piping added, some do not....


This is what it is going to look like, down either side of the front....(though the right side will actually have gold piping like the left when it's all said and done)


Box pleats and piping of DOOM! There is so much ridiculous fullness added by this trim...it's standing out on it's own in this picture - hardly need for a bustle! ;)

I cannot thank bodice_goddess enough for wrestling the pleating into submission! The striped fabric has an awful tendancy to curl once it's cut. She had her hands full with the 'stripey fabric o' doom'!


You can see a peek of the collar at the very top of this picture....I'm not extremely pleased with how the back seam turned out...that thick gold line is giving me fits, but it's a small thing in the big picture.


I cannot wait to get this bodice done so I can start on the skirts! I am *SO* excited! Bodice_goddess gave me some ideas for skirt trimming before she left, so I'm going to be experimenting and seeing what I can come up with.

I need to get this done before she comes back, because next time she's here, it'll be all about HER dress!

Still to do:
Bodice -
-Bodice trimming
-Bodice lining
-Bodice buttons/button holes (ugh, my least favorite)
Skirts -
-Petticoat
-Gold underskirt
-Stripey draped overskirt