Progress! All the half-finished stuff

Warning: this post is text-intensive, and probably mind numbingly boring to pretty much everyone other than myself!

I have a whole pile of stuff that is started, but unfinished. I am hoping that by tonight, the green kirtle will move from this post to the ‘finished’ post……I only have to attach the skirt, and it’s all done. I’m not going to be wearing sleeves, but I’ll probably make them now just so they’re available when I wear it next.

The red velvet gown is still on hold, as I’m still waiting on my die stamp. Hopefully I’ll get that soon!

The beading on the Turkish loose gown is closing in on the finish line, and my friend Gypsy has taken it home to get it finished off. I’m hoping I can get the body done before Uprising so I can wile away the day attaching the trim.

I’m having a hard time remembering if there is anything that I need to start still, but unless I’m forgetting something, all I have to start on is my partlet……I still haven’t figured out what I want to do with that yet. My brain is saying “No more decisions! Noooooo!”

To be started stuff: (I forgot about needing a dedicated camacia for the red gown. That velvet crocks all over the place, and whatever I use for that dress will likely be used for ONLY that dress.)

• Partlet - decide what to do, and just freakin' do it. Gosh, Noelle! Also want to bring to Uprising and work on there if at all possible.
• Camacia for red gown - simple, simple, simple. If for some reason there is any time at all, I'll do a very simple band of blackwork at the neckline. "but thats it".
• Stockings - I keep remembering things that need to be on various lists. Stockings! Astrid is going to help me pattern them sometime after her wedding. They shouldn't take that long to make, so I'm not worried.

Here’s the full accounting of my half-finished projects, and what needs to be done to them:

• Shade fly – needs poles, ropes & stakes. Also need to sew rear casing after I figure out the cross-support pole size. If hubby remains as busy as he has been recently, I may be doing this myself.
• Red gown – needs sleeves & tuck to be wearable. I’m hoping to also do cutwork trim on shoulder treatments, bodice and hem trim.
• Green gown – only needs skirt pleated and attached to be wearable. Am also hoping to get the sleeves done so I actually do them. I’m notorious for finishing a gown, and never doing the sleeves. (Sorry, Holly!)
• Purple Turkish – the beading on the trim is started, and nearly completed. (handed off to Gypsy for finishing) I have the fabric for the gown, but just need to get it cut out and constructed. I’m hoping to work on attaching the trim during Uprising.

And mostly because I need to write this down somewhere, here are the projects that other people have volunteered for:

• Hand towel – Praksedys (I hope I spelled that right!) has graciously volunteered her embroidering talents to make a towel.
• Hubby’s shirt – Ashe’el and Michelle are on the shirt project…I sat down with Ash during court and picked out some blackwork patterns that I liked, but left the final decision up to her.
• Hubby’s outfit – The fabulous Johanne has taken on the task of the doublet, coat, venetians and bonnet for my hubby. We sat down yesterday and raided my stash for supplies and figured out some of the details. She left with two large garbage bags of fabric and some sketches, so I hope she’s set!
• Chairs – Johanne’s husband has taken my chair commission, so I’m really, really excited. I cannot wait! I need to get him the cash this week so he can go shopping for supplies. He’s going to be carving the back support with my fleur (hooray!), and we’re thinking that the body will be oak.
• Jewelry – As if it needed to be said, Holly/Aine will be working on my jewelry. She is retrofitting my favorite belt of all time for the red gown, and is making a new pearl & garnet necklace and earring set. She got off easy!
• Camacia - I forgot this one....I asked Elizabeth if she'd do a camacia for the green gown, but I still need to get the fabric to her.
• Garters - D'oh! I forgot the garters! The fabulous Marguerite (another that I'm terrible at spelling!) offered to make my garters! My forgetfulness reflects on no way on my gratitude for this work, I'm just distracted as all get out! The garters will be card woven red silk & gold, and I'm insanely excited for them!
• Shoes! - Astrid is making shoes to go with the green and gold gown. I am so excited!!!

Then, I have other stuff that I’d like to get done for Uprising: (crazyface, I know.)

• Since it’s my last Prize Tourney (sniff, sniff!!!) I want to enter some stuff….the PPoD just needs to be sewn into pillow form, though I may just bring the top to show off….depends on time. I’ll probably going to be entering my chopines and blackwork sampler as well. I’m wracking my brain for more entries but am drawing a blank. Argh! I was going to teach a few classes, but what with all that is going on, I am in a serious time crunch, and don’t have the time to put together kits and handouts.
• I’m a couple of outfits short of having a change of clothes for every day at Uprising, but I have nearly an entire linen “V” gown done, just need to finish the rings and get the skirt attached. I may just get everything cut out and bring the pieces to work on at Uprising and if it gets done, then voila, another dress. Woohoo.
• Not to mention all the mending, gathering, and cleaning of garb, bedclothes etc. and packing thereof. *ooof*

Then, there is the DNP (Double Noelle Project) stuff for Costume College, which is the weekend after Barons War. Seriously?! Argh! (After CoCo, I’m going to fall-down-go-boom.)

• wigs x2
• petticoat
• stays
• gown
• jewelry

Quick Update Post

I’ll have a picture of the second set of panniers soon, they’re almost photographable!

Other Noelle has nearly finished her stays, and they are gorgeous!

We went to JoAnns today, and I found this lovely celery green brocade – the picture does not do it justice!  Guess how much it was?!  No really, guess.

You’re wrong.  It was $3.50/yd.  BWAHAHAHA.  Score!

Also, Other Noelle and I have come up with a logo for our joint project.  Conveniently enough, both our last names start with “P”; so the monogram is “Double Noelle Project/P-for-last-name”

18th Century trims pondering

I’m not sure how much extra fabric I’m going to have, so I may or may not be able to do as much with self fabric as I would like.  So I’m going through my stash to see if I can find anything that might work as trim.

I have loads and loads of black lace, which might work as a trim.  I’m a bit worried about using it, however.  In my (admittedly somewhat limited) research, I’ve not seen any gowns trimmed with black lace.  I’ve seen lots and lots of gold and silver lace trim, and even some cream or white lace trim, but no black.  If I can justify black lace for my gown, I'm set – I seriously have SO much of this stuff.

The lace is gathered down the center, then I did a quickie job ‘dying’ some trim with a sharpie (just so I could see what it would look like as a combo).

I have quite a bit of the pink (top) trim, but I really like the color, and I am actually planning a pink gown sometime in the future, so unless I really need to, I may not use this trim.

The mint green (bottom) trim on the other hand, I have an entire roll of, and would not feel bad at all dying and experimenting.  (This is the same trim layered over the lace above)

I’m not sure if I’m going to use any of them, but I have some options when it comes to lace – I even have enough gold lace should I decide that the dress needs moar bling.  I have such a hard time with trimming anything, so something shiny like gold lace might be a bit too much for me.

Panniers Complete

I need to name these panniers – they have the destructive force of a full-blown hurricane!

I faked the angled bones with extra-long zip ties, and will probably need to switch them out with stronger boning when I get my hands on some, and there still is not boning in the very bottom casing, but for all intents and purposes, they’re done!

I also tried on my pair of bodies – they’re a bit snug, but if push comes to shove, will work. This is probably the most dangerous costuming-related picture I’ve ever taken. The only mirror big enough to show the (mostly) full width of the panniers was in my bathroom, and the side of the tub is quite high – I was quite the sight trying to scramble to the top of the tub and crouch just enough to be able to take the picture! I still need to mess around with the gathers – I thought everything was all perfect; but then I see in this picture that the line is certainly not smooth. Grrrr.

Things don’t look that different from the last picture I took, but I assure you, I’ve done a lot today. I finished the waist attachments, added all the internal infrastructure, and re-did the angled boning.

I’m not 100% that I like the change, but I was having difficulty getting things to lie correctly, so I took a proverbial page out of the “Truly Victorian” bustle construction book, and moved the bones to the inside, catching the boning in small loops, rather than fed through an entire casing. This makes the bones easier to remove, and also seems to be holding up the corners of the panniers better.

I may end up re-doing the waist – I’m not terribly happy with the way it’s puckering at the hip, but I think it matters what it looks like underneath a skirt rather than what it looks like all on it’s own.

This whole experience has certainly underscored my distinct dislike of making underpinnings. (Even though I know how very important they are!) I’m just not as comfortable with the process, I suppose!

I’ve taken a shortcut or two in the process of constructing these panniers – I’ve used zip ties for the shorter, angled bones; and I’ve used masking tape instead of real boning tips. I have some on order, and will hopefully remember to switch out the ugly masking tape for real tips. (Even though I’ve never had trouble with the masking-tape shortcut…it makes me nervous since I’ve not done a whole lot of costuming that has involved reinforced and hooped underthings.)

And for other-Noelle: I’ve used my dad’s old wire cutters for years now – on everything from hoop boning/wire, zip ties, and corset boning. So, no, you don’t need ‘special’ boning cutters, but I bet it can’t hurt to have them on hand.

Panniers–Casings Complete

I’ve finished all the casings for the panniers, and I feverishly stuffed a couple of the casings with boning I had on hand.  I’ve over-stuffed the casings and they’re straining in an odd manner and I certainly need to spend some serious time getting everything balanced correctly.  But that time is not now!

Still to do:

-Buy and insert remaining boning

-Finish waist tape

-Balance hoops

Panniers–First ‘Official’ Post for the Double-No-L Project

I’m going to be doing panniers somewhat like the ones I saw at  LACMA earlier this year. 

I’m making mine out of tannish-brown linen, with casings made of cream twill tape.  The original is made of plain weave linen and uses cane in the hoops.  I have cane I can use for the hoops, but I may end up using steel instead – that’s a decision I’m going to make sometime down the road; after all the casings are done and I can make Bertha try them on for me.

These bad boys are HUGE!  They are so huge, in fact, that they do not fit on my table, and I can’t get the whole thing in frame, even while standing on a chair!

As you can see, I’ve constructed the ‘skirt’ portion, and I’ve been able to attach two casings before my shoulder (and other obligations not sewing-related) won out.  I’m not terribly convinced that I have this pattern all figured out, but I won’t know for until I get closer to the top and can mess about with the waist and gathering and whatnot.  I won’t be too terribly disappointed if I have to start over (other than the time wasted) since everything came out of my stash.

I originally was going to put the casings on the inside, but now I’m not so sure – I strangely like the contrast!  (Not that it’s going to matter a whole lot, I mean, it is underwear after all.

Another decision I will need to make is whether to do two bones at the corners as in the LACMA example, or one angled casing, like the one described in “Corsets and Crinolines.  I’ll most likely go with two, since I’m not sure how much strength my potential hoop boning will have. 

I have two more enormous horizontal casings to do before I make any foolish decisions, however.  For this, I am thankful.

And with that, I am heading off to bed!

Double-No-L CoCo Project

I decided I’m going to at least attempt a period-correct pair before falling back on my Effigy stays.  They’ll do in a pinch, but I’d rather have something that’s actually meant for this project.

         

I’ve had this Reconstructing History (#833) “1740s-90s Stays” pattern for a couple of years, and decided it’s time to pull it out.  I’m slightly disappointed at the level of instruction in the pattern, so I’ll be surfing the blogOsphere for dress diaries to see if I can figure out how these are supposed to be put together.  Not that this is a new situation for me, I rarely use patterns to begin with, so I’m actually ahead of the game this time.

I’m feeling pretty uninspired when it comes to fabrics for my stays.  I think they’re going to end up plain-jane black!

I’ll be doing the half-boned stays in the lower-left.  So far, I’ve ‘shopped’ in my stash and I’ve gathered up some black coutil, black silk taffeta, and black twill. 

After this Saturday, I’ll be working either on the stays, or two sets of panniers.  Hm.  I’m not looking forward to these stays, and I’m not in love with my color (or lack thereof) choices, so I may end up working on the panniers instead.  Hmmmmmmmm.

Sophie-Anne’s collar

There was an article on Threads yesterday that is going to become helpful when it comes time to make the True Blood dress; “Pressing a Rolled Collar into a Curve”

I’m also going to be surfing through “Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing” to get some tips on sewing retro garments. (She is SO awesome, btw)

Louisiana–it’s official, I really *AM* going! (And other Louisiana/costuming-related ponderings)

As of my original posting about the NOLA trip, there was still a slight chance that I wasn’t going to be able to go (what with taxes and whatnot still not settled.)  But the word as of 30 minutes ago is “It’s a go!”

What this is all bringing me to is the fact that I’ve been anxiously awaiting the return of my beloved, deliciously campy, silly and over-the-top “True Blood”.  (For those who don’t know, it’s a show set in Louisiana, in an alternate reality where people know about vampires, and where werewolves, witches, shape-shifters etc. are real – real & really dangerous!)

At the end of last season, Sophie-Anne, the Vampire Queen of Louisiana, wears the most incredible black satin gown.  (Sophie-Anne and Pam tie for the most drool-worthy wardrobes.  Sookie is just too sweet with what she wears; I just can’t bring myself to drool over her clothes!) 

I still want to see if I can make one of my very own for CoCo – I’m dying (haha) to make this dress!  My good friend (and fellow True Blood devotee) has been scouring the internet for appropriate vintage patterns, and (I believe) has purchased a pattern.  I need to step it up and find one too!

Right now, there are three patterns in the running:

Simplicity 2927

 McCall's 9130

Butterick 6304

I’ve not found any pattern that will be perfect as-is, but are all great starting places.

The original dress is quite obviously satin, but I’m going to try to make it completely from my stash and use up some of my silk taffeta.  There aren’t any pictures online that I can find, but the dress is lined in a blood-red satin, as shown in the video below.

Sophie-Anne ‘mourning dress’.

p.s.  Isn’t her hat just adorable?  I seriously love it!

Stash Taffeta for “Double-No-L” Project

I’m having a terrible time concentrating on the project at hand (eyelets?!  who need's em?!), and am horribly distracted by the 18th c CoCo project.

I am hoping I will be able to make my entire gown out of my stash fabric.  The only thing I think I may need is trim – either dye for the current trim I have, or new trim.  Other than that, I think I’ve got it covered, as long as one of my taffetas work.

A.  Dark teal taffeta (not as dark in the picture, however)  I have the most of this fabric, and would have absolutely no problem with making the entire gown, petticoat & trim.

B.  Dark plum taffeta (the most color-correct of the five pictured)  I think this is the one I have the second-to-most of.

C.  Red/Black shot taffeta.  (not at all what it looks like in the picture – this is very, very dark, and has definite black undertone that is not picked up in the picture at all)  I’m pretty sure I have enough of this to make a full gown, and if not, I can always fake the back of the petticoat.

D.  Pumpkin taffeta (pretty much color correct, though a bit darker)  I have quite a bit of this, too.

E.  Rose/Teal shot taffeta (shot taffeta never shows up in pictures the way it looks in real life.  This fabric has the nickname “Icy Rose” in my sewing room, and is completely nummy, but may not be the right fabric for this project.  It is darker in real life than shows in the picture)  I’m pretty sure I have enough of this fabric.

F.  Black  (not pictured.  Yeah, it’s just like what it sounds like….black taffeta)  I have enough to make a gown, but may potentially need to get more for petticoat.

Costume College Joint Noelle's Project 2011

We (by “we” I actually mean the ‘Other Noelle’) have decided what the Double Noelle Project will be for CoCo this year.  (Is there a better name than the “Double Noelle Project”?)

The original inspiration picture was found via “OMG that dress!” tumblr.  (Many thanks to Other Noelle for finding this gown, and telling me about “OMG that dress!”)  The gown is at the V&A museum, and is available to view in their collections online.

Will need:

Item	Yardage  (if applicable)	Notions (if applicable)
Stays	1 FF 1 Lining 2 Interlining	Boning Ribbon/Twill tape Lacing
Shift	3	Lace
Drawers	3	Lace Ribbon
Petticoat	4	Ribbon/Twill tape
Panniers	4.5	Ribbon/Twill tape Boning
Gown	7 FF +/-2 FF (trimming) 2 Lining	Trim Ribbon
Petticoat	4 FF +/-2 FF (trimming)	Trim Ribbon
Wig	SEEKRIT (maybe.  I haven’t decided if I want to blog this bit of the ensemble yet….)
Shoes	American Duchess
Stockings	Jas Townsend & Son (?)
Jewelry	TBD

My very, very least favorite part of costuming is undergarments – specifically shaping garments.  More than half of my corset/stay/bodies collection are purchased (bad costumer, BAD!)……I need to go through my stash and see if either of my Elizabethan bodies will work for this gown.  I’m really hoping one of them will, because I certainly don’t have the money right now to purchase a pair of stays, and I really, really don’t want to make ‘em.  ;)

I have to run off and make dinner, but perhaps tonight I’ll post about fabric options. 

I really need to buckle down on the kirtles because I can’t touch a new project until they are all done!

New Plan of Attack.

1. Finish up every last bit of things to be done for CC

2. Decide at that point if it is worth the hassle to rush through an 18th c. (I actually have a lot of hope, considering how far I got through the last one before Demitri got to it.)

New Plan of Attack.

1. Finish up every last bit of things to be done for CC

2. Decide at that point if it is worth the hassle to rush through an 18th c. (I actually have a lot of hope, considering how far I got through the last one before Demitri got to it.)

Cranford Dress & Melia's Brueghel-y/Flemmish

Sis was able to come over tonight and work on her Brueghel dress that has been in the planning stages for....months. We got the draping and patterning all worked out, so the next thing to do is get all the pieces cut and start on the sewing frenzy.

I plugged away a bit on the Cranford dress, I got quite a bit done, even through it doesn't really look like it, because there is *so* much handsewing and gathering involved.

Bad news is I broke one of my gathering threads, so I'll probably have to re-do the entire bottom. Poo. But at least I'll know what I'm doing a bit better this time.


There is a couple of things that I fudged in the construction, mostly because I mis-read the instructions, but I think it will still turn out OK.

Continuing Cranford Adventures....

I've been working on my CC '09 dress...feeling quite pleased with it. I still may make a 'fancier' one if I have time. If I use the same pattern, half the battle will be fought trying to figure out the pattern....at any rate, here is what I've been doing!

I've been working on ripping off the old ribbon and lining the bonnet with a light cream silk. Not quite sure if I like it or not...but then again, I don't know jack about the period! ;)


I got the lining all cut out and darted, hand stitched down. (Yay, I can do darts now!!! muahahaha!!! Take that, medieval/renaissance periods!)

(ok, I'm sorry med/ren period, I love ya. But I do love stretching my sewing skillz.)

I've also cut and started on the fashion fabric for the bodice. I *think* everything will fit just fine, I didn't do much fudging with the original pattern. I hope it turns out ok, my quick "throw on the lining and see if it works" was perhaps too quick. I'm not sure how the bodice is actually supposed to lay. I'm hoping the ruching along the bodice will hide a multitude of sins....


It's kind of hard to tell, but these two pieces took a bit of doing....the shoulders and waist have gathering lines, and there is what the pattern instructions call a "style line pleat" (It's the faint blue line curving downwards on the right pic). It ends up looking like a curved seam on each side back, but it's actually a curved fang-shaped tuck sewn down. Kinda odd, but really cool. (And I've done yet another sewing thing I've never done before on this one project!)

In the midst of all the SCA stuff, I'm still plugging away on the CC'09 stuff....

I have a waistband to put on one more petticoat, and I'm ready to tackle the dress. (omgomgomg!)