I've been holding this in since 12th night.......

So, I've always kind of assumed pockets were firmly in the realm of the 18th century. Then I went poking through Holly's copy of Moda at 12th Night, and lo and behold.....

(1575-78; Florence; Woman at her toilet; Alessandro Allori; Church of Santa Maria Noevella, Gaddi chapel)

HOLY POCKETS BATMAN!!

Look at that pouch on her right hip.....does that not look like a pair of pockets to you?! It does to me....

My extremely un-educated deduction is that given her state of undress, it is entirely plausible that these pockets would (or could?) be worn underneath the over gown. Am I totally off-base here? I have not seen anything on late 16th century pockets, like, EVAR. Is this because it's completely ridiculous to even speculate, or is it because pockets are not the accessory research du-jour? Has anyone seen any research or documentation for pockets earlier than say.......1600?

And Holly found another painting that also shows some object that I would like to think is a pocket: (Woman in the pinkish red skirt, wearing a tan and black "pocket" on her right hip)

(1595; Birth of the Virgin (detail); Alessandro Allori; Cortona, Church of Santa Maria Nuova)

**Thank you to Holly for scanning these and getting them to me!!**

**EDIT: the ever-lovely Bella pointed me to http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat's%20Soccaccia.html.
Another one of Katerina's pages is here: http://katerina.purplefiles.net/FlorenceFiles/FLAccessoriesSOCCACCIA.html
Katerina has found an extant Spanish pocket of the same time period here:
http://museodeltraje.mcu.es/index.jsp?id=48&ruta=4,17,48&referencia=MT00790
(jeez, that was hard to find! The English search functionality is broken, and had to go through the Spanish site. Ugh.)
I'm still totally jazzed for more info, but I'm tired out and need to go to bed. More lookin' around tomorrow.**

Oh, I've been a bad, bad girl....

I went to our local embroidery shop on a search for some titles that some people online are looking for, and I ended up getting a bunch of titles for me! I am SO excited for these books, they are SO AWESOME!!!!

"Tudor Treasures to Emboider" Pamela Warner
This book is actually kind of cheesy, but there are pictures of some extant garments I've not seen before. There is also some good basic stitch information.

"Smocking and Fine Sewing 19th c. Sources" Jules & Kaethe Kliot
Waaaaay OOP, but it has some good basic handsewing techniques, and I need to get better at handsewing! There is also some info that I am going to put to use in a camacia. I am SO EXCITED for this, I am no longer afeared of hand sewing a smock. YAY!

"Variety" Book No. 4 - a sewing manual from 1924. (Cool, eh?!)
Lots of information on whitework, Italian linen embroidery (oop, but cool!), pulled work, and Assisi stitches.

AND THE BEST FOR LAST......

"The Art of Elizabethan Emboidery: Stitches and Variations Used in Colored Silk and Metal Thread Embroidery - England, 1558-1625" Jane D. Zimmerman
THIS IS THE BOOK I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR!!!!! ZOMG!!!1!
*whew* Ok, but seriously, this book is really awesome. I wish I had this book about six months ago! It goes into detail about all the stitches, where they are used, in what types of threads, etc. There is also an interesting theory on plaited braid stitch and it's counterpart which I am going to have to see if I can work out. The long and short of it is, if anyone is wanting to know more about Elizabethan embroidery, BUY THIS BOOK!!!

*happy happy dance*

On a slightly sadder note, my gold passing thread showed up today. I'm not exactly thrilled......it's more bronze than gold, and the diameter is about 1/4 or less than the size of what I was hoping it would be. Anyone want to buy broze-y gold passing thread? (About 38 yds) I am not quite sure what I'll ever use it for. Bah.

Coif-y Update

I've been plugging away on the lighter green foliage, the close-ups are pretty boring, but the over-all effect is pretty rockin' if I do say so myself. It's coming right along!


I've run out of the darker green I've been using for flower bits. At this point I need to decide if I want totry to find a color that will work, order a whole new package of colors to get to the few I need, or hope against all hope that I can find a color that matches.

Hmmmm.

Upcoming projects, Sis edition

I ordered a ridonkulously large order of black wool to make husband's handsewn Hospitaller garb. (20 yds....I probably will only end up using 6 or less, since it's 60" wide. It was ON SALE, ok? Really, a SUPER GOOD SALE. It practically ordered itself!)

Sis wants to do some sort of Flemish-y project.....and the two worlds collide!! (And look at the cute apron and standing collar......wooooo!)

What do you think, Sis?

3 hours, two outfits!

Sis decided this afternoon that she would try to convince her husband that the whole family should go to 12th Night. Only problem is, the two older boys needed outfits. Michael and and Aislinn can use things that the older boys have grown out of. Between the two of us, we cranked out two tunics and two pants. w00t!!

The best part is, Sis is figuring out the wonderful world of 'the stash'....everything came out of fabric she already had. So, yeah....cool!!

Bowen's tunic and pants....


Shaun's tunic and pants....

Garb for Husband....

A tunic is finished for him to wear this weekend. Not my finest costuming hour, but it's done, and wearable. :(


(No, it's not parti-colour, it's just the shadow from the window.)

Does anyone have any pointers or starting places for 1200's Hospitallers? (I guess that's what Husband wants to do.) I'm lost. I bought some Osprey "Warrior" books for him a while back, but there is pretty much nothing on clothing. :(

Sis' garb for 12th Night...

Yay! I made a Tudor(esque) dress for Sis about three years ago, and she brought it over last night to test out what we need to do to make it work, and guess what?! It fits!! Yay! I was having nightmares about pulling the skirt on and extending the bodice and lalalala, but I think it will work as-is. We went shopping last night and got some silver lace to put on her smock that we made last year. (Which I don't think has ever been worn!) She will have a pretty, pretty dress!!! :D


We steamed it last night (and called my mom to tell her I used her xmas prezzie!), and it also needs a good rollering. I finished hemming it a few minutes ago, and have started on finishing up the lace on the smock.

Yay! Sis' Tudor still fits!!! :D

Test Lizzie Coif/Jacket complete!!

ay! I have a new outfit for 12th Night. I cut corners on some construction stuff, and I don't technically have all the pieces I should (like a new shift), but it will work. The fabric is a bit too thick to be optimal for this piece, but I think it turned out OK in the end. I am not wearing my all-purpose shift and my shoes and stockings, and the coif, all of which I will be wearing on the day. I really hate being so short. Bah!

I think at some point I want to make a new kirtle to wear with the jacket, I'm suprised at how much I love it! :D

Front (Picture me wearing the tester lizzie coif with my hair all done...)


Side view (You can see where I should have taken a dart out of the bodice. (d'oh!)


Back view...


Close-ups of gold lace and cord...

Pseudo-Dress Diary

Thanks to hollyiggymom, I am now nearly done with the Lizzie jacket that is to go with the tester coif. I didn't take many pictures of the construction of it, but here is the mock-up

(This is take 2 of 3, the next version fixed the puckering seen down the center back)

I made the jacket out of some mystery fabric I've had around about....forever. I purchased gold silk for the lining, and gold cord and lace for the trim....




(All the seams are outlined in gold cord....Gold lace on the right....I'm not exactly positive where it's going, but I want it! This is also the same lace I've been stressing about for the 'real' coif. I'm so glad I found some!!)


(All the gores are outlined in gold cord.....two are on the seams, which make it nice and easy, the back and the front are inset gores *die* I am so not good at inset gores!!)

I am planning on making a red silk skirt to go with the whole outfit. The skirt is cut out and seams assembled. All I need to do is the hem and the waistband.

Hopefully I can finish all this stuff in time to work on an outfit for Husband. The plan right now is for a basic tunic. I may or may not try to get a hood done as well.

Test Lizzie Coif Construction, Creation, and Finished Product...

I wanted to make a test coif to make sure that I knew what I was doing when it came to hacking into and stitching the coif I've been laboring over for months! I ironed and starched a piece of fabric large enough for 2 layers of the coif. I cut two pieces out exactly the same size as the coif I'm embroidering. I sewed the sides and top together, clipped the seams, and turned right side out.

I then stitched the top together. (Next time I will make the seam about 4" shorter) I cartridge pleated the open section with heavy thread at the back and tied off.


(Back pleated and tied off, top seam)


(Top, stitched together, the back is gathered together, and the front edge has lace whipped to it.)

I turned under the bottom edge, stitched together, and created a casing for the lucet cord

(Bottom edge, gathered on lucet cord)

I spent about 2 minutes messing with my hair to get a "frysse" hairstyle. When I do it for real, I'll take more time and do straight parts, and use more pins. (I only used 2!!)

I parted my hair from ear to ear, and then sectioned down the center. I rolled each section backwards and pinned in place. (There are very few times I am thankful for super-curly hair, and right now is one of them!!)

I need to get a swatch of fake hair to braid and use as a bun, since my hair is not thick or long enough to fill out the back of the coif.


(Side view of hairstyle and coif)


(Front view of hairstyle...coif peeking out!)


(Top of hairstyle and coif)


(Back of hairstyle and coif)


(Top/back view of hairstyle and coif)

Stitches Con't....

Muahahahaha.....I finally found the Wikipedia page the stitches came from! The Plaited Braid stitch is not listed with the others.

realm_of_venus got me thinking. (I know, scary, huh?)

Here's a break-down of some extant coifs collected from Elizabethan Costume --

I think this is the coif that is in PoF4 that has the funky vines.

(Click pic for larger web pic)

I do not know what stitch is used to make the vines, but it's not gold, and it's not plaited braid.....

(My crop and blow-up....Looks like it should be worn while viewing the Bayoux Tapestry, no?)

Blackworked coif, with the vines outlined, and the insides packed with spangles....(I can't seem to find the blackwork example that had buttonhole stitch filling the vines. bah.)

(Click pic for larger web pic)

I can't tell for absolutely sure, (I'm no embroidery expert) but it looks to me like these vines were done in a chain stitch with gold....(So maybe chain stitching w/gold is an option after all? Dunno...gold still might be cost prohibitive, and I am not sure my quality of work would stand up next to gold.)

(Click pic for larger web pic)


I do not know what the stitch is (anyone have any ideas??), but it's worked with gold.....

(Click pic for larger web pic)

But now onto the actual coif that is (mostly) the pattern I used.....They used chain stitch for filling (as I did) and used plaited braid for the vines. (Which I am probably not going to attempt) The stitching is very dense and fine. Mine is not so. ;) The original also uses silk, where I used wool.

(Click pic for larger web pic)

There are other techniques that were used on the original, such as detached needlelace (buttonhole??) for the textural and structural qualities of the pea pods, tudor roses, and butterflies. Some flowers were padded, I padded nothing. There are also lots and lots of spangles, which I fully intend to distribute liberally all over mine.

(My crop and blow-up....Spangles, chain stitch, and plaited braid stitch)

Depending on how sick I am with this project when I am finally done with it, I may go back and do the veins on the leaves like on the original...

(My crop and blow-up)

All in all, I'm still completely wiffle-waffled about the whole vine stitch/thread issue.

Okie Dokie....Upcoming (SCA-centric) Projects!!

For me, it's kind of tied between the following three: (I want ALL of them at some point, just I have to decide what I want first) Actually, I think the order the picture is in might be the order that I want 'em. Mebbe.




I am going to try to have a new outfit for 12th Night, so I think it might be down to the first inspiration portrait or a simple Elizabethan jacket.

Considering the time constraints, I might go with the jacket. I think it just depends on how I'm feeling when I start. (Which will probably be tomorrow)

I think next up to bat for Holly (who now has an LJ profile, as of today! w00t!) is an earlier-period Italian. (But I still need to finish the shirt and false front for the silver and black venetian from last time. d'oh!)

Inspiration pics:

Holly likes the second one best, and I agree, I love the sleeves on it....Green turnback, and gold stripey something (cuff??) underneath. Holly, I hate to break it to you, but the more I look at these pictures, the more I'm thinking that fake-o ties won't really work. We'll test it and see, but it seems to me like the ties are part of the structural integrity of the garment. Mebbe. We'll see.

I don't think that there is any supporting garments underneath....look at the horizontal wrinkles under the bust on the portrait on the left...I think that either the dress itself is providing the support, or maybe some sort of corded bodies/kirtle underneath the camacia?? I'm leaning towards the dress-only side. Any opinions? Has anyone seen any ideas/reasearch either way??

Other portraits I'm diggin' at the moment for one reason or another....