The bodice is cut all in one piece, with a seam on the top of the shoulder, and opens down the back. First step is to pin the linen fashion fabric layer to the linen canvas lining (strengthening) layer.
Next, I sewed around the neckline, center back, and armscye; leaving the bottom of the bodice and the shoulder straps open. I clip all the curves and corners and then press the seams open. I generally find it necessary to only press the heavier (white) layer, but depending on the fabric, I may press the other side as well. In this case, I only pressed the canvas layer.
I turned the whole thing right-side out, making sure the corners were nice and crisp.
Side-note: My favorite tool for poking corners is a bone folder. I used to use scissors, but ended up shoving the scissors all the way through and destroying the fabric half the time. With the bone folder/point turner, there are no sharp edges to catch on fabric, and the point is trim, but not too pointy. I highly suggest them as an essential tool in the sewing arsenal!
Back to the kirtle…….I pressed all the seams again, once again making sure all the seams are nice and crisp.
The next step is to pleat and attach the skirt and whip the shoulder seams.
Where does one acquire a bone folder? I could seriously use one!
ReplyDeleteRed kirtle is coming together fast! I wish I had time to sew :(